Running through Israel

Our trip to Israel was amazing.  We had a guide that is well known to past HUG'ers and many others who have visited the Holy Land area. Yossi Paz is an enthusiastic, energetic Israeli that holds a Phd. in Archaeology-Anthropology.  He speaks 4 languages and plays the flute and a small version of the bouzouki.  He teaches university classes, is a sought after worldwide speaker, and guides when time allows.  Our purpose on this trip was to seek out areas other than the "must sees" or tourist places that Yossi felt might be beneficial and interesting for the students that we bring to Israel three times a year.

His philosophy is "if the door is open, go in and see what awaits you" many times on our trip some doors were closed only to be opened by Yossi, taking us into an entirely new cultural experience. As he guides he makes connections to scriptures that help in the understanding of the place, time period, or experience.

We started our day in Jerusalem by walking through the Jaffa Gate stopping to see various points along the Via Dolorosa, and also enjoying the views of the market area itself. Our first real stop was to visit with a young Messianic Jew in the Anglican Church, English Garden.  It was cool, peaceful and interesting to hear Hadel tell of the struggles the Messianic Jews face in their homeland.  Attached to that property is an old underground aqueduct and diagrams showing how water was brought into the city in ancient times. We also met a local archaeologist who has written books, worked with well-known diplomats and written articles for National Geographic. We saw some of his pottery, lamps etc., from biblical excavations.

Next we visited a Lebanese monastery where from the roof we had a panoramic view of the old city.

We then traveled through the crowds viewing the now 'worship areas' thought to be where Jesus was placed in the tomb. There are about 30+ different groups each with a different viewpoint. We moved around the corner to see an area thought to be the Tomb of Joseph of Arimethea.  True or not, it is a very characteristic  tomb of bible times and gives a vivid picture of what the tomb would have been like. We wandered in and out of little alleys climbing up and down rooftops to churches, study groups and housing areas of many other religious groups.

We then climbed to the roof-top of the Muslim quarters and opened the door of a very private Jewish Yeshiva.  This is where the ultra orthodox spend time in studying the Torah and believe they have a direct connection to God with a little band they wear around their heads. This group was younger than some and didn't seem to mind we were viewing their inner sanctum.

From there we went down to the cotton sellers market and had the closest view possible to the Golden Dome.  This area is off limits to all that are not muslim, because it is the month of Ramadan. Some men were praying in the courtyard.  There were guards and we were not permitted any closer and even had to have permission to take a picture! 

We then stopped for a cool drink at garden in the Austrian Hospice area.  A welcome stop from the intense heat that we were victims of this week. This summer Jerusalem was experiencing the hottest temps they have had.  42C (108)  and up depending on the area. One area recorded a record 62C.  We were sweating for sure with the reflections off the light rocks and closed in walled areas.

For the evening part of the tour Yossi heard there was to be a special ceremony in the ultra orthodox ghetto area where they were bringing in a new Torah for that community.  He got a yamaka for Mike and told me to wear a long skirt and closed shoes so we could go and watch the ceremony.  Unfortunately, he forgot that I would need long sleeves (naked elbows are not allowed) so we could only watch from a distance. It was interesting as they carried the new Torah through the streets with lanterns lighting the way as the men sang and chanted.

We then went to view what some people feel is David's Tomb.  Most of the experts disagree, but it was an interesting site with small "chapels" on each side for the men and women to go separately to read and pray. On our way out we heard music so we followed the sounds and found a small family group of french speaking Arab jews that were celebrating the first cutting of their 3 year old son's hair.  Yossi told them he played the flute and they invited him to play a song of David and then cut a lock of the child's hair.  They spoke some English and we had a nice visit and ate refreshments with them.

Our next stop was the Wailing Wall from a top balcony.  From this position we had a wonderful view of the old wall all lit up at night and filled with men and women on their respective sides chanting, leaving notes in the wall, reading and praying.  You could also see an area of excavation  of a Bysentine temple.  After going through security we entered at floor level and each visited our respective areas to view the wall up closer. Out in the courtyard we saw a group of young girls at a communion ceremony, and a group of ultra orthodox transporting a Rabbi and his son for his Bar Mitzvah. From there we climbed the old city wall and took a walk around to the next gate.  These areas are secured by Israeli soldiers. 

That concluded day one!